The power of fragrance-free

The words 'fragrance' and 'parfum' seem innocent enough. Most of us don't give 'fragrance' a second thought in skincare ingredient lists.

But fragrance & parfum can contain a complex mix of harmful chemicals, with a single artificial scent made up of anywhere between 15-300 different chemicals. Don't expect to find any of them on the label though, they're legally considered a 'trade secret'.

While scent uplifts our mood, there's good reason to champion fragrance-free products for the skin, particularly to help protect our hormonal health. A 2016 report found 75% of the harmful chemicals detected in cosmetics were found in their fragrance, including endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs).

Female reproductive disorders are increasing at an alarming rate, and a sweeping review of over 250 studies suggests EDC's are a key contributor. Here we'll focus on two EDCs - phthalates & synthetic musks, along with volatile organic chemicals (VOCs), and the benefits of going fragrance-free.

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Unmasking phthalates

Phthalates are added to parfum to make scent long-lasting on the skin. But that longevity comes at a cost to our health, as phthalates mimic & interfere with our natural hormones & harm DNA.

The two main types of phthalates that have been added to fragrance & cosmetics are diethyl phthalate (DEP) & diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP).

DEP -

Commonly used in fragrance globally & considered 'less harmful' than DEHP, but that's changing - e.g. studies have linked low-level DEP exposure to genomic changes in breast tissue associated with breast cancer.
DEP is rapidly absorbed through the skin and breaks down to monoethyl phthalate/MEP in the body. A 2025 study found that MEP is a significant risk factor for breast cancer.
Other research has linked MEP exposure to fetal development impacts (2024), pregnancy loss (2021), infant allergy (2021), adult weight gain (2024), endometriosis (2023), & increased hormone imbalance in menopause (2024).

DEHP is now banned in the EU & China, but not in most US states. Here in NZ we follow EU cosmetic regulations. DEHP is one of the most harmful phthalates. It's well linked to reproductive problems (pregnancy loss & preterm birth), insulin resistance, and increased risk of female reproductive system cancer.

Unpacking synthetic musks

Synthetic musks are fragrance profile enhancers, providing a sweet base note. One type of synthetic musk used in fragrance is the polycyclic musks, including galaxolide (HHCB) & tonalide (AHTN).

These musks are ‘lipophilic’. This means they're fat-loving & build up in human fat cells, so they're found in places such as breast tissue & breast milk.

Like phthalates, they’re endocrine-disrupting (binding to estrogen receptors in cells) and linked to reproductive toxicity, neurotoxicity, and liver toxicity. Research has linked AHTN to proliferation of breast cancer cells.

Synthetic musks also enhance the toxicity of other harmful chemicals increasing our vulnerability to additional toxins. They're not well removed by wastewater treatment plants and therefore bioaccumulate in the environment and other species in the food chain.

VOC's - a dirty secret

Fragrance is by nature volatile, meaning it easily evaporates & disperses into the air where it’s inhaled. Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) such as solvents are commonly used in fragrance to create & disperse it, but can cause respiratory symptoms & allergies.

For personal care products like moisturizers applied to the face, the potential to inhale VOCs increases due to their use near the nose and mouth.

Up to 30% of people in studies report major health effects from exposure to fragrances in everyday life, either through respiratory system reactions (asthma), migraines, or inflammatory skin reactions.

In a 2018 study of 42 fragranced baby products, over six hundred emitted volatile organic compounds (VOCs) were detected, one-third of which were potentially hazardous, including ethanol & acetone solvents.

Many personal care products release VOCs in low concentrations, but since VOCs are found in so many products, it’s easy for them to accumulate to high concentrations indoors. Avoiding products with added fragrance helps reduce VOC exposure in the home.

Reducing our exposure

Hormones operate on a parts-per-trillion level in the body, (equivalent to a fraction of a teaspoon in an Olympic-size swimming pool!), so this delicate system’s balance is easily disrupted.

Personal care products & cosmetics are one of the biggest sources of our exposure to phthalates like DEP, so choosing fragrance-free products for your skin is a significant investment in your hormonal health.

A 2023 study found that avoiding paraben & phthalate-containing cosmetics for just 28 days resulted in a significant drop in DEP metabolites & parabens in the body, and more importantly, reduced cancer-associated gene expression.

Armed with the knowledge that avoiding chemicals like phthalates has a measurable impact in a short time, it might be time to sniff out alternatives to synthetic fragrance?

Fragrance-free, breathe easy

Going fragrance-free is the best way of avoiding hidden harmful skincare ingredients, as ‘unscented’ products often have added masking ingredients such as alcohols and aldehydes, which are added to hide the unpleasantness of highly refined synthetic-origin ingredients on their own.

Certified 100% natural fragrance is the next best option to avoid phthalates and other nasties, but is best avoided for people with sensitive skin as skin-sensitising compounds are often present.

We’re proudly phthalate-free. Ethos products for the skin are all either fragrance-free, or use certified 100% natural fragrance from Grasse in France. Because we uncompromisingly use the best quality 100% natural-origin ingredients in our products (including preservation derived from star anise), we don't use masking agents.

If you’ve been thinking about breaking up with synthetic fragrance for your health & wellbeing, consider this your gentle nudge :)

FIND Fragrance-free